January's bleakness is a familiar complaint, but citrus fruit offers a bright counterpoint. As the holiday season's frenzy gives way to hibernation and the charm of early snowstorms fades, the arrival of citrus—cara cara oranges, blood oranges, pink grapefruit, tangerines—provides a "luminous ray of tropical sunshine."
The appeal of citrus is broad, but for some it leads directly to pie. Key lime pie, in particular, is a standout, and its key ingredient is sweetened condensed milk. The thick, creamy milk—described as "halfway to dulce de leche"—protects against the harshness of lime juice while preserving its tart-fragrant charm. A salt-flecked buttery graham cracker crust and a raft of whipped cream complete the dessert, which can be made in well under an hour.
The pie's appeal is perhaps best summed up by a friend's observation: "I never know it's what I wanted until I'm eating it."











Editorial Notes